In the summer of 1980 in the world of mountaineering has been an extraordinary event — Italian Reinhold Messner for the first time conquered the highest peak of the globe, making it without companions and without the use of respiratory masks kislorodno. This incredible climbing and still delights lovers of the mountains, writes the Express online.
Born Reinhold Messner on 17 September 1944 in South Tyrol. From childhood accustomed to the mountains, spent much time in the Alps, was fond of climbing. Where was born the passion to conquer the peaks. For the first time, Messner went to the Himalayas together with his brother Gunther. And although they managed to reach the goal, on the way back brother Reinhold died, and he had frostbite and lost seven toes. Two years later, in 1972, killed his partner.
Despite the tragic events, Messner change my mind. It was interesting to do something that no one has ever dared. Finally decided to be one-on-one with the mountain what! 8848,43 meters! The above does not happen.
Getting ready for the ascent in 1975, Messner, along with partner Peter Habeler first climbed on MT hidden peak without oxygen devices. They moved quickly, without lengthy acclimatization and installation of the camps. To his goal the climbers came in three days. Three years after, in the company of the same partner Messner first climbed Everest without oxygen. And after three months in solitude won eight of Nangaparbat.
For a single conquering Everest chose unpopular among climbers time — a short break of fine weather in pelamushi period (usually climbers choose the period of monsoon April — may). A daredevil didn’t even make the radio, at the height of 6,5 thousand meters in the base camp for his return was waiting for a friend Nena Hahn. Therefore, in General, the ascent Messner took four days and on the way from base camp to the summit, he spent three days. Without oxygen device.
Even six years after Messner became the first man to have climbed all 14 eight-thousanders of the earth. And when left behind the largest peaks, Messner has set itself a new goal. So later crossed Antarctica, Greenland, reached the North and South poles. Restless and fearless, he is Reinhold Messner.
By the way, one of the rules of the legendary alast: “none of the top is not worth to die for it”.